Four Steps to Building a More Ethical Wardrobe
Often times, when I speak or write about the importance of ethical fashion/ethical consumerism and the importance of appreciating fashion as an art form, my talking points are met with the same questions. As it can be difficult to find resources online that are actually helpful and don’t come across as accusatory, I want to be the big sister who can help educate and inform your shopping decisions while inspiring you to express your true self through the medium of fashion.
To begin, I want to be fully transparent. There was a time when I only shopped from fast fashion brands. I was still figuring out my personal style and as a late teen/early 20-something kid, fast fashion was both affordable and easy to access (so trust me when I say I understand the appeal). Unethical practices in the garment industry are something we’re all aware of, but it can be difficult to fully understand or comprehend unless we face it head-on. When I was studying fashion merchandising in college, a pivotal moment would change my life and my perspective forever. A professor of mine had worked as a buyer for a large brand and had ended up touring one of their factories. She took some photos while there and showed them to the class. I saw children working. Not older teenagers, literal children. I saw elderly people who were well past retirement age slaving away. I saw wealthy company owners in suits walking through the factory as though they were ogling at a zoo. The whole thing made me disgusted, and for me, that was the moment that I personally began to change my shopping habits.
The first step to becoming an ethical consumer is figuring out your personal style. I don’t mean this to say you should be limiting your self-expression to a certain aesthetic. I mean figure out which silhouettes you find most flattering on yourself, what style you feel most comfortable in, and what brings out the most self-confidence within you and helps you to shine. Personally speaking, dressing up and wearing heels does this for me. For you, it might mean wearing jeans and a t-shirt or sneakers and sweats. Everyone will have a different style and that’s okay - that’s how it should be. Now, you might be asking, “How can I try out different styles of clothes and learn what I love while being ethical and not spending obscene amounts of money?” Well, thankfully, there’s a solution now that wasn’t around when I was younger - monthly clothing rental services (which have the added bonus of being sustainable and good for our planet). I haven’t personally tried any of these services myself, but some of the top-ranked options are as follows (I’ve listed prices next to them as well):
Nuuly - You’ll receive six items a month for $98. The service allows you to pause or cancel your subscription at any time, so there’s no long-term commitment. The price may seem high, but if you’re purchasing several orders from fast fashion companies with multiple items, the totals are likely in the same range. You don’t need to have the clothes cleaned before returning, they have items dry cleaned at no additional cost to you (it’s covered by the monthly fee). They also offer both petite and plus-size options!
Stitchfix - You’ve likely seen their services advertised on social media platforms. They are the most inclusive option on this list as they offer styles for all genders and ages, have a very inclusive size range, and even offer specialty categories like maternity clothing. Unfortunately, the total cost is hidden unless you subscribe. There is an upfront $20 styling fee if you’d like to work with a virtual stylist. If you pay to keep the pieces in the box, prices can be quite steep, but to try and return the items, it seems as though the cost is lower.
Armoire Clothing Rental - This is the most budget-friendly option on the list. They offer three plans - the 4-item plan starts at just $69/month, the 7-item plan is $89/month, and the Unlimited Plan is $139/month (6 items per case, but unlimited cases). You can pause or cancel at any time and they cover the cost of cleaning and any minor damages/repairs. What I love about this company is they feature upcoming designers and brands from women and POC! There’s no expectation for you to buy any items either, they focus strictly on the rental model of their business.
Rent the Runway - You’ve likely heard about this service, too. If you’re looking for a special ensemble to wear to a gala, wedding, or other formal event, this is the place to look. As I tend to dress up anyway, I usually cycle through items I already own for events and style them differently. However, I absolutely plan on utilizing Rent the Runway in the future as I begin to attend more shows and conferences. You can sign up for a monthly plan and cancel at any time. For example, if you want 5 items for Fashion Week events, you can subscribe for that particular month and then cancel after. Think about it - if you’re buying an extremely formal gown for an event, when will you wear it again? If you aren’t going to get multiple uses out of it, it’s wasteful consumerism. The best option is to rent the item (however, if you love dressing up and will wear an item again and again, it’s worth it to purchase the gown and support the designer).
The second step to becoming an ethical consumer is to only purchase what you need and support ethical brands where possible. As an example, I currently own two pairs of jeans and both are from Reformation. When one pair begins to wear out, I’ll replace them. However, I’ve found that by purchasing higher quality denim, they last much longer than jeans have in the past. The first pair I’ve owned for nearly four years and they’re still going strong! Even better, Ref’s designs are sustainably and ethically made, and they offer full transparency with quarterly reports on their website.
The third step is to upcycle or donate when needed. Once you’ve worn items out or outgrown them, it’s best to upcycle where possible. If you find that sewing and/or crafting just aren’t gifts of yours, take some time to research charitable organizations you may donate the items to. If the items are completely worn out, I recommend looking into different programs that purchase old clothes for the purpose of recycling the fabric, such as this program from For Days.
The fourth step is to shop mindfully, even when on a budget. The reason why fast fashion is so problematic is because new styles are constantly being added and there’s no circularity. When influencers and individuals spend thousands revamping their wardrobe every month, it creates a harmful cycle of laborers being overworked, underpaid, and often harmed either directly or indirectly by their working conditions. For some, because of budget and circumstances, fast fashion may be the only option and they may only purchase a few items yearly (meaning their purchase is sustainable for their lifestyle; it’s something to be used again and again). So, how can ethical & sustainable consumerism still be embraced? One way is by checking the country of origin on the garment tag. There are many conflicting documents online regarding which countries are the worst offenders, but there seems to be a general consensus that many countries in Asia, the Middle East, and Africa tend to be the most highly exploited. This doesn’t mean that workers rights aren’t violated elsewhere nor does it mean that every factory in the top 10 worst countries operates unethically. Ethical & sustainable fashion is a vast issue with many layers. It is possible to produce slow, ethical fashion in a country such as China, India, Pakistan, or Colombia where workers are often exploited. It all comes down to the factory, the factory owner, and most importantly, the companies that are essentially owning and operating them from abroad.
This has been a very long-winded first post, but I hope that it contains helpful insights and encourages you along your sustainable & ethical fashion journey. It is my hope that one day everyone will have access to ethical choices and they will be the norm.